{"id":1371,"date":"2012-10-04T22:23:37","date_gmt":"2012-10-04T21:23:37","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/kudzia.eu\/b\/?p=1371"},"modified":"2012-10-07T20:33:03","modified_gmt":"2012-10-07T19:33:03","slug":"balkans-again","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/kudzia.eu\/b\/2012\/10\/balkans-again\/","title":{"rendered":"balkans &#8211; again"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>so i&#8217;ve hit the road again &#8211; packed my trusted 8-10yo travel bag, took laptop, camera + 3 lenses, kindle with 400+documents waiting to be read or deleted, mp3 player, gps, two mobile phones, earplugs, some old clothes and nothing more. i&#8217;ve even left intentionally at home travel guides borrowed from the local library &#8211; less is more.<br \/>\n<!--more--><br \/>\ni was in Croatia, Bosnia &#038; Herzegovina and Serbia one year ago and i liked it so i decide to travel there again. i flew from Stockholm to Sarajevo. in the evening there was no bus connection directly from the airport so i took a ~2km hike from the airport to the stop of <a href=\"https:\/\/maps.google.com\/maps?q=43.842784,18.328467&#038;num=1&#038;t=h&#038;z=18\">tram #3<\/a> and from there 20 min ride to <a href=\"http:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Ba%C5%A1%C4%8Dar%C5%A1ija\">Ba\u0161\u010dar\u0161ija<\/a> &#8211; historical center of the city. i&#8217;ve stayed near it in 2011 and in this year as well. it&#8217;s perfect starting point for the hikes around the city.<\/p>\n<p>Sarajevo this year was sunny and warm; while wandering around the streets of old and new districts I&#8217;ve noticed Turkish presence&#8230; something i did not pay much attention during my previous visit &#8211; there&#8217;s at least one Turkish bank, plenty of adverts of Turkish airlines, adverts of the Turkish chamber of commerce. on slightly related note &#8211; i&#8217;ve also &#8211; noticed Aljazeera Balkans with office in the city center and TV program running in the hall of hotel i&#8217;ve stayed in.<\/p>\n<p>being attracted to the strong sources of electromagnetic field i&#8217;ve visited two hills with radio transmitters giving nice view on the city: <a href=\"https:\/\/maps.google.com\/maps?q=43.872435,18.386663&#038;num=1&#038;t=h&#038;z=19&#038;iwloc=near\">1<\/a>, <a href=\"https:\/\/maps.google.com\/maps?q=43.878662,18.431137&#038;ll=43.878686,18.431&#038;spn=0.001119,0.002642&#038;num=1&#038;t=h&#038;z=19&#038;iwloc=near\">2<\/a>. you can see from there dozens of cemeteries scattered all over Sarajevo &#8211; a very obvious sign of recent <a href=\"http:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Siege_of_Sarajevo\">siege<\/a>.  <\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/kudzia.eu\/b\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/10\/IMG_5386.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/kudzia.eu\/b\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/10\/IMG_5386-300x200.jpg\" alt=\"one of many cemeteries scattered around the city\" title=\"one of many cemeteries scattered around the city\" width=\"300\" height=\"200\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-1384\" srcset=\"https:\/\/kudzia.eu\/b\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/10\/IMG_5386-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/kudzia.eu\/b\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/10\/IMG_5386.jpg 800w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a> <a href=\"https:\/\/kudzia.eu\/b\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/10\/IMG_5341.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/kudzia.eu\/b\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/10\/IMG_5341-300x200.jpg\" alt=\"typical Sarajevo landscape with mosque towers\" title=\"typical Sarajevo landscape with mosque towers\" width=\"300\" height=\"200\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-1392\" srcset=\"https:\/\/kudzia.eu\/b\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/10\/IMG_5341-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/kudzia.eu\/b\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/10\/IMG_5341.jpg 800w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>after few <a href=\"http:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Burek#Former_Yugoslavia\">bureks<\/a> eatem and 2 nights i took a trusted Sarajevo-Belgrade train to Doboj. as before train is not very timely and consists of only two railroad carts that look exactly the same as polish ones.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/kudzia.eu\/b\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/10\/IMG_5427.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/kudzia.eu\/b\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/10\/IMG_5427-300x200.jpg\" alt=\"Ba\u0161\u010dar\u0161ija\" title=\"Ba\u0161\u010dar\u0161ija\" width=\"300\" height=\"200\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-1395\" srcset=\"https:\/\/kudzia.eu\/b\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/10\/IMG_5427-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/kudzia.eu\/b\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/10\/IMG_5427.jpg 800w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a> <a href=\"https:\/\/kudzia.eu\/b\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/10\/IMG_5487.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/kudzia.eu\/b\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/10\/IMG_5487-300x200.jpg\" alt=\"suspiciously familiarly looking train Sarajevo-Beograd\" title=\"suspiciously familiarly looking train Sarajevo-Beograd\" width=\"300\" height=\"200\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-1396\" srcset=\"https:\/\/kudzia.eu\/b\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/10\/IMG_5487-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/kudzia.eu\/b\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/10\/IMG_5487.jpg 800w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>Doboj turned out to be very calm and quite pleasant. it&#8217;s a city perfectly fine for 0.5-1 day stay. i&#8217;ve passed by the <a href=\"http:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Fortress_of_Doboj\">local fortress<\/a> and wandered around. i liked the evening atmosphere of the city &#8211; it was warm &#8211; 20+C, quite dark &#8211; with only few lamps working, a bit foggy with the mist from surrounding fields, all accompanied by cicadas. Doboj is part of <a href=\"http:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Republika_Srpska\">Republika Srpska<\/a> which becomes apparent quite quickly &#8211; local orthodox church was more hm.. lavish? dominant? than mosques; some of the signs and labels were written in cyrillic rather than latin alphabet.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/kudzia.eu\/b\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/10\/IMG_5524.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/kudzia.eu\/b\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/10\/IMG_5524-300x200.jpg\" alt=\"view from the Doboj fortress\" title=\"view from the Doboj fortress\" width=\"300\" height=\"200\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-1398\" srcset=\"https:\/\/kudzia.eu\/b\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/10\/IMG_5524-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/kudzia.eu\/b\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/10\/IMG_5524.jpg 800w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a> <a href=\"https:\/\/kudzia.eu\/b\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/10\/IMG_5564.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/kudzia.eu\/b\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/10\/IMG_5564-300x200.jpg\" alt=\"new lavish Orthodox church\" title=\"new lavish Orthodox church\" width=\"300\" height=\"200\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-1400\" srcset=\"https:\/\/kudzia.eu\/b\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/10\/IMG_5564-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/kudzia.eu\/b\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/10\/IMG_5564.jpg 800w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>On the next day i took another train ride to Osijek in Croatia. you can tell the difference between Bosnia and Croatia quite quickly &#8211; it&#8217;s more &#8216;modern&#8217; or &#8216;western&#8217;. Especially that city felt very Scandinavian to me &#8211; maybe because of the number of people biking\/rollerskating\/jogging on the biking paths marked all over the city, or maybe it was the way people dress? similarly to Doboj &#8211; the city felt very relaxed, with plenty of people hanging around cafeterias and bars.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/kudzia.eu\/b\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/10\/IMG_5709.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/kudzia.eu\/b\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/10\/IMG_5709-300x200.jpg\" alt=\"riverside promenade in Osijek - feels like Sweden\" title=\"riverside promenade in Osijek - feels like Sweden\" width=\"300\" height=\"200\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-1402\" srcset=\"https:\/\/kudzia.eu\/b\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/10\/IMG_5709-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/kudzia.eu\/b\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/10\/IMG_5709.jpg 800w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a> <a href=\"https:\/\/kudzia.eu\/b\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/10\/IMG_5659.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/kudzia.eu\/b\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/10\/IMG_5659-300x200.jpg\" alt=\"near the Tvr\u0111a fortress in Osijek\" title=\"near the Tvr\u0111a fortress in Osijek\" width=\"300\" height=\"200\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-1403\" srcset=\"https:\/\/kudzia.eu\/b\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/10\/IMG_5659-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/kudzia.eu\/b\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/10\/IMG_5659.jpg 800w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>Hungary next &#8211; i took another train to P\u00e9cs. i wasn&#8217;t even bothered by [only] 1h delay of my arrival. while earlier visited places could feel like polish province [say Bialogard], P\u00e9cs felt more like bigger polish city &#8211; Gdansk or Poznan &#8211; much denser and more crowded.<\/p>\n<p>i wanted to see the Balaton lake so instead of going straight to Budapest i took a detour to Si\u00f3fok [combined bus ride via Szekszard]. funny thing &#8211; when i arrived to Si\u00f3fok it was +33C, yet city &#8211; holiday destination similar to polish Mielno &#8211; looked abandoned. it was already off-peak, plenty of shops, restaurants and hotels were already closed. Balaton did not impress me &#8211; it turned out to be really flat and shallow &#8211; after ~50m of going into the lake i was still knee-deep in the water.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/kudzia.eu\/b\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/10\/IMG_5932.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/kudzia.eu\/b\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/10\/IMG_5932-300x200.jpg\" alt=\"lively old town in P\u00e9cs\" title=\"lively old town in P\u00e9cs\" width=\"300\" height=\"200\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-1405\" srcset=\"https:\/\/kudzia.eu\/b\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/10\/IMG_5932-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/kudzia.eu\/b\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/10\/IMG_5932.jpg 800w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a> <a href=\"https:\/\/kudzia.eu\/b\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/10\/IMG_5994.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/kudzia.eu\/b\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/10\/IMG_5994-300x200.jpg\" alt=\"half-empty, off-peak-ish balaton coast in Si\u00f3fok\" title=\"half-empty, off-peak-ish balaton coast in Si\u00f3fok\" width=\"300\" height=\"200\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-1406\" srcset=\"https:\/\/kudzia.eu\/b\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/10\/IMG_5994-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/kudzia.eu\/b\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/10\/IMG_5994.jpg 800w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>the last part of my journey was a travel from Si\u00f3fok to Budapest. this time local train [pretty nice one!] delivered me on time to the capital of Hungary. Budapest is full of really nice architecture, unfortunately at the same time it was quite crowded and felt &#8216;heavy&#8217; &#8211; like P\u00e9cs &#8211; i cannot really tell why. the architecture i saw in Hungary was great and worth seeing but it tired me; i&#8217;m glad i&#8217;ve been there, but i&#8217;m not sure i&#8217;ll re-visit them again any soon. Bosnia &#038; Herzegovina and Croatia were more enjoyable [or less demanding?].<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/kudzia.eu\/b\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/10\/IMG_6063.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/kudzia.eu\/b\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/10\/IMG_6063-300x200.jpg\" alt=\"Pest seen from the citadel hill in Buda\" title=\"Pest seen from the citadel hill in Buda\" width=\"300\" height=\"200\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-1408\" srcset=\"https:\/\/kudzia.eu\/b\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/10\/IMG_6063-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/kudzia.eu\/b\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/10\/IMG_6063.jpg 800w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a> <a href=\"https:\/\/kudzia.eu\/b\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/10\/IMG_6032.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/kudzia.eu\/b\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/10\/IMG_6032-300x200.jpg\" alt=\"paprika [crazy hot]\" title=\"paprika [crazy hot]\" width=\"300\" height=\"200\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-1409\" srcset=\"https:\/\/kudzia.eu\/b\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/10\/IMG_6032-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/kudzia.eu\/b\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/10\/IMG_6032.jpg 800w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>so i&#8217;ve hit the road again &#8211; packed my trusted 8-10yo travel bag, took laptop, camera + 3 lenses, kindle with 400+documents waiting to be read or deleted, mp3 player, gps, two mobile phones, earplugs, some old clothes and nothing more. i&#8217;ve even left intentionally at home travel guides borrowed from the local library &#8211; [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[7],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-1371","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-travel"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/kudzia.eu\/b\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1371","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/kudzia.eu\/b\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/kudzia.eu\/b\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/kudzia.eu\/b\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/kudzia.eu\/b\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=1371"}],"version-history":[{"count":28,"href":"https:\/\/kudzia.eu\/b\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1371\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1467,"href":"https:\/\/kudzia.eu\/b\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1371\/revisions\/1467"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/kudzia.eu\/b\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=1371"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/kudzia.eu\/b\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=1371"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/kudzia.eu\/b\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=1371"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}